Sunday, July 10, 2005
Hail to the Hills of Moscow
A quick story to share with you for now, but keep on the lookout for an update of my experiences in Moscow and St. Petersburg.
Outside of nearly every touristy place in Moscow there are the inevitable tables lined with “traditional” Russian souvenirs: fake Soviet snow hats, USSR pins, McLenin T-shirts, and rows and rows of Matryoshka (nesting) dolls. Whenever we would have time after seeing the sights, we would wander the tables, looking at the wares, all while trying not to make too much eye contact to avoid the pushy salespeople. Along a beautiful vista overlooking Moscow’s stadium and river, I strolled along, glancing at the tables, when suddenly the color of UCLA-football-helmet gold struck my eye. I look over, and there is a Matryoshka doll dressed in a UCLA football uniform. After my Pavlovian response to the color, I dart to the table to see if it is just a UCLA mirage after seeing far too many of the regular dolls for my own good. I get close, and see that, in fact, it is one of only a couple of sports dolls – Green Bay Packers, U of Michigan, and 49ers also represented. I take a closer look and see that the Matryoshka is in fact Drew Olson all suited up. I open it up and find Manny White nestled inside, as well as the receiving corps, and a tiny Maurice Drew in the center. I glance at the price tag – 1275 rubles – which is not so much a price tag as an opening bid for bartering. I asked the salesman how much he could give it to me for; he replies 1000. I have 950 rubles in my pocket, and I tell him, I can’t give you 1000, but I’ll give you the 950 in my pocket; I pull out my wad of 50’s (which by the way are about $1.60 US), and start counting them out for him. He tells me not to worry, that he believes me, bags up my doll, and sends me on my way.
I still can’t believe that even at the farthest I’ve ever been from home, there’s a reminder of my home campus, and even more unbelievable is thinking that someone sat down with the UCLA roster and a picture of the uniform and took the time to paint something so random. Regardless, it’s the best rubles I’ve ever spent.
A look at the lineup:
Outside of nearly every touristy place in Moscow there are the inevitable tables lined with “traditional” Russian souvenirs: fake Soviet snow hats, USSR pins, McLenin T-shirts, and rows and rows of Matryoshka (nesting) dolls. Whenever we would have time after seeing the sights, we would wander the tables, looking at the wares, all while trying not to make too much eye contact to avoid the pushy salespeople. Along a beautiful vista overlooking Moscow’s stadium and river, I strolled along, glancing at the tables, when suddenly the color of UCLA-football-helmet gold struck my eye. I look over, and there is a Matryoshka doll dressed in a UCLA football uniform. After my Pavlovian response to the color, I dart to the table to see if it is just a UCLA mirage after seeing far too many of the regular dolls for my own good. I get close, and see that, in fact, it is one of only a couple of sports dolls – Green Bay Packers, U of Michigan, and 49ers also represented. I take a closer look and see that the Matryoshka is in fact Drew Olson all suited up. I open it up and find Manny White nestled inside, as well as the receiving corps, and a tiny Maurice Drew in the center. I glance at the price tag – 1275 rubles – which is not so much a price tag as an opening bid for bartering. I asked the salesman how much he could give it to me for; he replies 1000. I have 950 rubles in my pocket, and I tell him, I can’t give you 1000, but I’ll give you the 950 in my pocket; I pull out my wad of 50’s (which by the way are about $1.60 US), and start counting them out for him. He tells me not to worry, that he believes me, bags up my doll, and sends me on my way.
I still can’t believe that even at the farthest I’ve ever been from home, there’s a reminder of my home campus, and even more unbelievable is thinking that someone sat down with the UCLA roster and a picture of the uniform and took the time to paint something so random. Regardless, it’s the best rubles I’ve ever spent.
A look at the lineup:
Comments:
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What a find!! It seems like it was just sitting there with your name on it waiting for you arrive. To bad no Joey Bruin doll. I'm looking forward to your next blog. ...from your father who art in Las Vegas.
By the way, there is a Russian Vodka restaurant here in the Mandalay Hotel. It's called Red Square and at its entrance is a 15 foot headless statue of Lenin adorned with fake bird poop. You can buy hats and t-shirts with a red square on the front and on the back it says "join the party".
By the way, there is a Russian Vodka restaurant here in the Mandalay Hotel. It's called Red Square and at its entrance is a 15 foot headless statue of Lenin adorned with fake bird poop. You can buy hats and t-shirts with a red square on the front and on the back it says "join the party".
Dear Alex:
We are having a great time reading your blogs! You are a terrific writer and it looks like you are having a great time. We must, however, pass on some info for you. Of course the guy who sold you the nesting dolls trusted you--you paid at least 3 times too much! Let us give you some info on bargaining out there. If you find something you like, don't get excited about it. Look, examine briefly, put it down and look at a couple other things. Ask about something else, put it down. Then, when it looks like you are leaving, casually ask about the best price they could give you for the item you really want. Look, shake your head, start to leave. They will immediately lower their price or ask you what you will pay, and offer them only 10-20% of original asking. They will tell how their mother made this, and they have to feed their family, but the price will come down again. They will ask you again how much you will pay, and don't go up. They will shake their head. Start walking away and the price will go down again! Don't go above 25-30% as a final price, and I bet you get close. They will sell it to you, then tell you what a good bargainer you are, while making signs of their hand going across their throat! Then everyone smiles and take a picture with them, and you will have a lasting memory of the experience. Be not afraid--bargaining is a big part of their culture. They do this with everyone, and you will really enjoy the experience. Just keep a poker face and all will be well. Remember, they won't sell if they cannot realize a small profit--you are just trying to find that point that it's worth it to sell to you. Enjoy, and keep writing!
Jessica and Jeff Gaynor
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We are having a great time reading your blogs! You are a terrific writer and it looks like you are having a great time. We must, however, pass on some info for you. Of course the guy who sold you the nesting dolls trusted you--you paid at least 3 times too much! Let us give you some info on bargaining out there. If you find something you like, don't get excited about it. Look, examine briefly, put it down and look at a couple other things. Ask about something else, put it down. Then, when it looks like you are leaving, casually ask about the best price they could give you for the item you really want. Look, shake your head, start to leave. They will immediately lower their price or ask you what you will pay, and offer them only 10-20% of original asking. They will tell how their mother made this, and they have to feed their family, but the price will come down again. They will ask you again how much you will pay, and don't go up. They will shake their head. Start walking away and the price will go down again! Don't go above 25-30% as a final price, and I bet you get close. They will sell it to you, then tell you what a good bargainer you are, while making signs of their hand going across their throat! Then everyone smiles and take a picture with them, and you will have a lasting memory of the experience. Be not afraid--bargaining is a big part of their culture. They do this with everyone, and you will really enjoy the experience. Just keep a poker face and all will be well. Remember, they won't sell if they cannot realize a small profit--you are just trying to find that point that it's worth it to sell to you. Enjoy, and keep writing!
Jessica and Jeff Gaynor
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